Superb episode today talking to Collingwood, Ontario Rock Climber and climbing guide Leslie Timms. We dive deep on training, travel, strength/mobility and small business.
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1) Quick Bio -> what do you do in sport and business ? Where have you come from ?
Owner, Lead Guide at ‘On the Rocks’ based out of Thornbury ,Ontario
Certified PCGI Lead Guide = INFO ABOUT THE GUIDING INSTITUTE
Approved PCGI Mentor = (Professional Climbing Guide Institute)
Professional Climber with Arc’teryx La Sportiva, Sterling Rope, Flashed, Sanuk
1 day course / gym-to-rock transition courses
2) How do you train / what sports and/or disciplines ?
6 week period to get ready (stay climbing / fit year round )
power endurance – hold onto intensity/difficulty = boulder 4 x 4min and see if can hold time to complete / ability to complete
hang boards – to build finger strength / grip strength / forearms / hangs
campusing ?? – a ladder with very small/shallow hand holds
2b) What does your strength training look like ?
Couple ‘TIPS’ posts on your blog include a strength routine
Link to page 58 of Dead Point Magazine http://edition.pagesuite-professional.co.uk/launch.aspx?referral=mypagesuite&pnum=&refresh=Xq615W0aj8F1&EID=083b6a7c-1971-4ed6-bd99-2f34e4c76a06&skip
3) Beginner Climber – Where to start ? (clinic ? skilled friend? type of climbing? any preparation tips?)
mistakes -> use arms too much / not pull
-> intermediate on rocks first time = route finding
limits in connective tissue ?? Skin Tips ? (see blog for blister care)
Kids taking over sport
4) what aspect do you think most ‘fit people’ lack when they try climbing ?
–indoor versus outdoor for training
=> endurance to hold / find route – how to manage arm pump on the wall
–transitioning from indoor to outdoor
=> gear to get – beginner shoes (la sportif the nago) , chalk-bag, harness
=> shoe buying tips – tight
–training for climbing without access to climbing ( if you are on road / weather not great OR someone getting ready to go climb)
*Great post on leslie’s blog about a 2010 block of focused climbing HERE http://www.leslietimms.ca/search/label/Climbing%20Tips
5) Are there certain styles or approaches to rock climbing better suited to females versus males ?? Do you see certain trends/ approaches in males vs. females?
*women tend to use technique v.s. and hips close to wall
short people can get into certain positions (curved rocks etc. or pulling a big roof onto face)
In rock climbing as a sport is there equality ? (prize money, access to climbing spots/routes, sponsorship etc.?
Dyno jump – instagram
6) Trip this past week – where were you and what all about ?
-> developing a climb
-> issues of laying routes. pros-cons of more people climbing.
7) Winter van /trailer life -> what have you found works best for van/trailer ??
– home or in van, any daily routines you keep up for general health/fitness?
– finding a routine when home the tough part !
9) Training Gear
– metolius grip saver – squeeze a ball – extensors = http://amzn.to/1WOMa2B
arm aid – forearm roller = for elbow = http://amzn.to/1Ub5Aci
Yolk – https://www.facebook.com/theyoak/photos/pcb.1743683002535652/1743679419202677/?type=3&theater
9) Training with Husband –
= avoiding ‘maritals’
= finding your own goals / purposes and respecting each others’ reasons for doing it
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